Naveen Kharmawphlang redefines comfort with natural fabric

He is friendly, even around strangers, and his infectious energy rubs off on those close to him. His confidence may come across as muted vanity, but Naveen Kharmawphlang seems to care less.

Not many know Kharmawphlang as a designer, probably because he has been reluctant so far to promote his brand in Shillong.

“I work with authentic linen and other natural fabrics. Sustainability is important. But not many will understand the philosophy behind my work, and not many can value the hard work,” he says, as he takes a bite of a home-baked cake made from fine chocolate from Geneva, and then takes a sip of tea. He has been talking deliriously, answering most of the questions that I had in mind. It’s time for a break.

One cannot miss the excitement in his voice when he talks about fashion, apparel designing and his venture, Kynian.

Kynian is a Khasi word that means the dimensions of a piece of cloth. The name is apt for his brand, which has an exclusive collection of fusion clothes that are gender and age-neutral.

“My winter collection is made of Marina fabric, which I have bought from Punjab. It’s classy and reminds me of my grandmother’s collection,” he says and sifts through the collection to pick one of his favourites in black.

Back in his cosily decored living room cum kitchen, Kharmawphlang shares his journey to becoming a designer.

Kharmawphlang always had a knack for art and design, and as a child, he would design clothes for his Barbie dolls. But his creativity was barely recognised at home, and he was forced to reject an offer from NIFT to take up medicine.

‘I was studying in Delhi, and quit after three and a half years. I would see designs every time I looked into the microscope,” he says, as a mischievous smile plays at the corner of his lips.

In 2012, he joined Delhi-based Big Indian Wedding as a stylist and made a big impression on his senior colleagues and clients. After spending eight months there, Kharmawphlang decided to channel his passion into an academic pursuit. He joined Mod’Art in Delhi, and after completing his studies, freelanced as a makeup artist and stylist. He also worked for designer Anita Dongre.

But there was more in store for this dynamic designer. While he was working, Kharmawphlang applied to Central Saint Martins, one of the finest colleges of the University of the Arts London, and was admitted. After completing his course in London, he joined Akris, an ultra-premium brand in Switzerland, as an intern. “It was a great experience. During my stint there, I got the opportunity to design a jacket for the Princess of Monaco,” he informs.

The COVID-19 pandemic changed the course for Kharmawphlang, who was already back in Shillong. He started Kynian in 2021. “The first few months were spent training the two young women who joined Kynian. I paid them too, so that they would be regular,” says the 35-year-old designer.

Kynian had its first competitive entry into the market in 2023. The first exhibition was held in London, and Kharmawphlang’s works were appreciated. “This instilled confidence in my team.”

The designer had multiple pop-ups in London, and Kynian received a substantial customer base there. But back home, the popularity scorecard was unimpressive. “As I said earlier, we do not do mass production, and there is no compromise on quality,” he explains.

Kharmawphlang uses natural materials. For instance, instead of zippers, he used buttons. He sources silk from Sialkuchi in Assam and gets the block prints done in Jodhpur.

In 2025, Kynian had its first pop-up in Shillong. Local fashionistas became aware of Kharmawphlang’s body of work, and those who appreciated it returned to Kynian.

Kharmawphlang runs his humble boutique from his house in Riat Laban. However, there is neither a signboard nor any indication of the existence of Kynian. Most of Kharmawphlang’s buyers contact him on social media.

Kharmawphlang’s designs are a reflection of his personality — confident and convivial, chic and unpretentious. The designer has a unique way of presenting comfort that is a fusion of ethnicity and modernity. He is audacious as a designer, in a way that might make one think about Coco Chanel’s definition of herself, “I don’t do fashion, I AM fashion.”