Sunday Monitor

Timeless call of Mother in Pondicherry

Pondicherry remains more than just a destination, it's a journey into stillness, an embrace of the divine

The call of the Mother was unmistakable and profound. Every time I have felt the urge to visit her, it has been met with an undeniable summons, and this visit was no exception. She is the Divine Mother of Sri Aurobindo Ashram, Pondicherry—the spiritual companion of Rishi Aurobindo, whose presence continues to guide countless seekers.

In the last week of February 2025, after a six-year gap, my wife and our thalassophile (sea-loving) daughter set foot again in Pondicherry.

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The town, with its perpetual tropical embrace, remains unchanged in essence, though increasingly commercialised by the ever-growing influx of tourists. Yet, amidst this transformation, the sanctity of Sri Aurobindo Ashram endures, untouched. The soothing sea breeze, flowing unceasingly from the Promenade Beach (popularly known as Rock Beach), mingles with the divine stillness of the Ashram, creating an atmosphere of tranquil devotion.

I often wonder how this very scene might have welcomed Rishi Aurobindo upon his arrival in this serene and colonial town, then under French rule.

Nestled within the White Town of Pondicherry, the Ashram exists like a hidden sanctuary, bordered by the restless sea on one side and a historic French-era canal on the other. Its distinctive blue-grey structures, scattered across the area and beyond, subtly mark their presence, helping even an unknowing traveller recognise them as part of the Ashram.

Most of our time was spent either within the Ashram — where the sacred Samadhi of the Divine Mother and Rishi Aurobindo rests — or by the seashore, where the whispering waves seem to carry unspoken messages of peace.

The divine presence of the Mother and Aurobindo is palpable here. Scores of devotees, many from foreign lands, arrive daily to pay homage at the Samadhi, a white marble shrine adorned with fresh floral tributes. Bowing their heads, sitting in deep meditation, or simply resting their foreheads against its cool surface, each seeker seems to find the solace they have long sought.

Beyond the Samadhi, a life-size portrait of the Mother welcomes visitors inside the single-storied Ashram house on the ground floor. Her radiant smile, captured so vividly, seems to gaze into the soul, offering silent guidance.

Many sit before her image, transfixed, lost in silent communion. Some prostrate themselves in reverence, while others lean upon the stair railing at the back, where a simple staircase leads to Rishi Aurobindo’s living quarters on the first floor.

The very sight of this staircase invokes visions of the Mother’s graceful descent in days past. It is here that Rishi Aurobindo secluded himself for 24 years, dedicating his life to his spiritual work after a profound realisation in 1926.

A glass-enclosed chamber houses the bed once used by the Mother, where visitors pause in meditation, absorbing the serenity that lingers in the air. Nearby, a hand-drawn image of the Mother and Aurobindo reflects their divine essence in delicate strokes.

Inside the Ashram, photography is strictly prohibited, perhaps to preserve the sanctity of an environment whose only true identity is peace. Devotees find their quiet corners, be it beside the Samadhi, near the portraits, or along the staircase, immersing themselves in the sacred stillness.

It is a space where the toxicity of the external world is gently cleansed. Here, the mind unwinds and the soul breathes in tranquillity. To simply sit here, absorbing the vibrations emanating from the Mother and Aurobindo, is to experience an inexplicable magnetism, one that makes leaving an almost impossible task.

Many seekers stay in Pondicherry for months, devoting their time solely to this sacred practice. Speaking to some of them, I learned that their days revolve around the Ashram, where they return unfailingly, drawn by an invisible force. Those who have spent long hours here understand that it is not just a place — it is an experience, a realm where the spirit is gently guided inward.

One must obtain a pass from the Ashram authorities to meditate in Rishi Aurobindo’s room and witness the sacred spaces within. Those fortunate enough to stay in Ashram Guest Houses, like we did at the Park Guest House facing the sea, are granted these passes. Other visitors can secure entry through the Bureau Central, which serves as both an exhibition hall and an introductory space, offering insight into the teachings of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother.

Through photographs, captions, videos and texts, one is led deeper into the vision and spiritual philosophy that inspire seekers worldwide.

Pondicherry remains more than just a destination — it is a journey into stillness, an embrace of the divine. At its heart, the Ashram stands unwavering, a beacon of peace for those who seek it. The Mother’s call is ever-present, waiting to be heard by those who listen.

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